Shade and
other Site Considerations

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Ginseng likes potassium; bone meal is an excellent source and is available at your
local farm or garden store.
Ginseng likes nitrogen. Decomposed leaf matter is a nice source of nitrogen. You should
put small (thirty inch) survey rods in your beds, about twelve feet apart. During
storms, static electricity is attracted to the rods. This releases nitrogen. Ginseng loves
it.
The seeds that we have for
this spring planting are just some of the most outstanding seeds that Ive had the
opportunity to handle. Weve been working on a new stratification process over
here, kind of a spin off on the work that weve been doing on growing ginseng south
of the equator. We know that ginseng has an 18 month germination period, creating the
necessity to stratify these seeds for one year prior to planting. The key to the
germination is abrupt temperature changes such as you would find at the spring of the year
under natural conditions. As the snow starts to melt in the spring, temperature changing
radically triggers the germination of the seeds.
We do have a new process for handling ginseng seeds to increase not only the
germination factor but to genetically crossbreed back to the original plant. We can get
into the little sisters effect. Ive got some pictures showing where these
little seedlings have come up under 3 year old plantings, and these were cross-bred seeds,
so the genetic pattern in those young ones coming up is already there. Ginseng is a
unisexual plant that can have 2 to 3 seeds in a single pod, all three can have different
fathers and yet the genetic pattern of all the seeds are being taken up and become a part
of the genetic pattern of the plant itself. The first generation seeds are really good,
and by the time youve reached the fourth generation, your weaker seeds have died
back, and your stronger strain seeds, the more natural type plants, have come forward. You
should wind up in four years time with almost 100% yield and maybe plus.
Keep your seed beds close in. Dont encourage large roots, the market
doesnt want that. There has to be a constant balance between the commercial
aspects and the wild ginseng, so that we dont harvest our wild totally out of
existence. The whole purpose of publicizing the facts about the germination and
stratification processes that were using here is to encourage it to be used through
the industry, so that we can not only reestablish an endangered species into the natural
habitat within my lifetime, we can go on to make it universally available for its
medicinal purposes to the entire world.
We dont know where all this plant will grow. We know its basically a
colder weather, higher climate type plant, and it likes mineralized soils, such as we find
on the ancient glacial deposits here in southern Michigan, northern Wisconsin, on into
Minnesota. Similar soils are into the Carolinas and mountainous regions of Kentucky and
Tennessee. What the ginsenocide level of these plants will be we dont yet know.
We encourage feedback from all our growers. We need commercial growers out here
that have the appropriate suitable sites. If you think your site is suitable, send us up a
picture or two. Well e-mail you back an opinion.
Bed preparation can be elaborate or simple. Removing the underbrush and
lower plant growth will make it easier to plant, mulch and harvest ginseng. Use approved
herbicides to kill small growth. Then remove brush and undergrowth that would be a problem
when planting and harvesting. Keep the beds six feet wide and insure enough space to reach
all weeds and the plants from both sides. Work your beds from drainage ditches.
Undergrowth needs to be cleared to improve air circulation, to reduce
competition and to allow room to till . Weeds need to be
eliminated. A herbicide should be sprayed on your site about two weeks prior to planting.
Round-Up works good here. As part of your site preparation you should consider the
balance of light in the woods. If you are going to utilize the woods, you need a
good forestry program.
For goodness sake, plan your plantation in advance! Allow yourself
time, not only to get the merchantable timber out of the way, but get the firewood out of
the way so that you have a clean site. Remove all the downed stuff. You need a good clean
site to work with.
Get started with a hybrid seed patch first. About ninety percent of the
woods that I have walked into, I could go over to the east side and I could find a place
in there that with a minimal amount of work would be a good site for an initial seed bed.
Those plants would then be up and growing for you, leaving time to balance your woods,
work on the programs, etc.
This does not free up the capital that is involved in a commercial
venture immediately, but growing ginseng should be a long term venture. It does take a
certain amount of commitment, but it is not that difficult a plant to grow. It is not all
that easy, either. If you approach growing ginseng as a way to get rich quick overnight,
you ought to think a second time about planting it. You can make a lot of money in the
ginseng business, but common sense is what will get you there faster.
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Ginseng is a unisexual plant, and when trying to develop a top
quality seed, the rules are a little different. The problem is that the majority of
the ginseng seeds on the market are some what inbred. The growers have not been
handling their ginseng seeds like they do their corn seed. The way to overcome this
problem is to cross breed different strains of ginseng seeds together. This will create a
new strain of Ginseng seeds. It is the object of Glacial Ginseng Company to gather
the very best seed available, by going right to the growers and seeing the plants that
they come from. The Ginseng seeds that are produced from these select crossbreeds
will be known as "Glacial Gold Ginseng Seeds" and
should prove to be just outstanding plants.
"Planting
Tips"
Plant early, especially the further North you are. This
gives the seeds a chance to become climatically adapted to the environment that they are
being planted in. This also gives the seeds a chance to be absorbing the nutrients
from the soil that they are going to be raised in. When purchasing your seeds, be
especially wary of seeds with dried out hulls. The embryos may be alive, but your
germination factor will be greatly reduced. Naturally all of our seeds are
float tested and decontaminated before shipment. Quality must be number one.
Our future markets are going to demand it.
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Maintenance
Generally ginseng is a low maintenance crop. Proper pH
is very important, 5.5 to 6.0 is best.
Your local feed mill or lawn and garden supply can recommend what is
best for any problems you may have. They might even test the soil for you (test kits are
available for you to use)!
If you follow the recommendations for growing potatoes in your area then
you will be on the right path.
Spraying is necessary during April and May, about every ten days while
the "Glacial Gold" ginseng seedlings are coming up. After that you need to spray about every three weeks until
the plants go dormant in late September. I blend coyote urine in with my spray. This
really keeps the deer and other wildlife out of your beds. Deer do not like to eat
ginseng, but their sharp hooves can do some serious damage to your plants.
Ginseng is susceptible to Alternaria Blight, Phytophthora
Leaf Blight and Phytophthora Root Rot. As a precautionary measure, from the start, I
had been using Manzate2OO DL by Dupont. They no longer make this. I
have found that what they are using for potatoes, works well for
ginseng. It treats the leaves and then goes down to treat the
roots. I use a good emulsifier, if you don't have any, liquid dish
soap will do. This helps the spray stay on the leaves
longer. I have had
some awful nice, healthy plants. Stay on top of it, get out there and check these plants
periodically. The problem with ginseng is if it develops a problem, it can develop it in a
hurry. You need periodic checks. The second you find something wrong with your plants, do
something about it! These things can multiply! Ginseng needs some spray and we know
what works good for them. Especially in the first year's growth, you have to almost
"baby-sit" them. After the first year, it is an entirely different situation.
Ginseng does not always come up every year. It is a perennial
plant. Sometimes they come up one year and don't come up at all the next year. These beds
that I have been working on, I am seeing actually new seedlings coming up with the two and
three year old plants ... These are seeds that did not germinate the first year. The roots
are the same way. Some of the old timers tell me that ginseng can go two, or even three
years, before it will come back up again.
Do not hesitate to contact your local college, they have some
real good extension services. You can learn from a book and you can learn out in the
field.
These books can shortcut your education, what I am trying to do
is keep you away from some of the problems that we've got in ginseng.
My own
product that we label is 100% woods grown. I have many people who have used my product,
happily coming back and paying $23.95 (US) for another bottle. That's quality. The other
products on the market are working with low ginsitis level, only four or five percent of
ginsitis.
Really good plants will be in the fifteen to eighteen percent
levels. How they test for levels gets a little complicated. An old test that my dad taught
me as a young man is you take a root, snap off the end, taste it with the tip of your
tongue. When it's real bitter, that is good ginseng. After you have tasted different types
of ginseng, you get where you can tell whether it is good ginseng or not. Do the same
thing with your commercial capsules and take a taste with the tip of your tongue.
If you have good ginseng and drop a small piece into a bottle of
beer, the alcohol will release the ginsitis and cause the beer to foam. If you put a small
piece into a cup of coffee you can taste the bitterness. Break up a capsule, the contents
should do the same thing. No foam means low ginsitis levels. Heat or alcohol will release
the ginsitis in ginseng.
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